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12 – Relay e / m valve (short circuit in the circuit).
#Toyota diagnostic trouble codes code#
The indicator should display the code of the norm (blink 2 times per second).Press the brake pedal eight or more times in the interval of three seconds.Reset fault codes (models with DLC3 connector) Remove the jumper from the “TC” and “CG” terminals.After 4 seconds, read the code by the number of flashes of the indicator.Cross over the pins “TC” (13) and “CG” (4) of the DLC3 connector.98 – Vacuum sensor in the vacuum brake booster (C1200).47 – Position sensor additional throttle.25 – Oxygen sensor – lean signal (P0171).24 – Intake air temperature sensor (P0110).22 – Coolant temperature sensor (P0115).19 – Accelerator pedal position sensor (P1121).19 – Accelerator pedal position sensor (P1120).16 – Automatic Transmission Control System.14 – Ignition system, coil number 1 (P1300) and number 4 (P1315).12 – Crankshaft Position Sensor (P0335).Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation. I suppose this would confirm whether or not the “V3” VSS is functioning but doesn’t really help with my current problem.
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It says to look for 4 voltage changes per turn of the wheel. The FSM describes a procedure that involves jack the rear end up in neutral and rotating the wheels while watching for a voltage change on a specific ECU pin. Unfortunately freeze frame data is non-existent on this island. I have posted on a couple of Toyota forums and no one seems to know anything about this specific dash lights flashing when pulling DTC codes. I think the next step is going to be removing the instrument cluster and trying to verify continuity between the speedometer and the other systems. I have cleaned all the grounds for these systems and confirmed with a multi meter that they are in fact good grounds. 1 of these 2 wires also shares the same terminal connection with the wire coming from the ABS ecu. 1 for power and 2 wires connected to the speedometer. I assume this means that it is attached to the instrument cluster. In the diagrams, there is a device labelled “V2” VSS (combination meter). The Speedometer is connected to the ECU by a single wire and the ABS ecu by a single wire The ABS light is on but I cant pull the codes (refer to the video above). This system is connected to the ECU by a single wire and the Speedometer by a single wire. From what I understand its to provide information for the Electronically controlled transmission to help decide on the proper gears to be in. It’s a 2 wire sensor connected directly to the ECU. According to the wiring diagrams, this VSS is labelled as “V3”.
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I was originally looking at the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on the rear section of the transmission. I am attaching a youtube link for a better explanation. Instead of the ABS light flashing a code, The ABS light turns off, the "cruise' and "airbag" lights begin flashing ans different varying rates. When pulling the codes on this vehicle, a port in the engine bay must by jumped with a metal wire. I tried to pull the DTC codes again to see if any new ABS codes had been generated but I have a new problem. That broken sensor has never affected my speedometer function. I pulled the DTC codes a year ago and retrieved the code for one of the wheel sensors that are broken. I have also had an ABS light active since purchase. All other gauges are functioning normally. As soon as I did that the CEL instantly disappeared but my speedometer is still not working.
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The resistance is in normal range according to the FSM. I cleaned the outside of the sensor and the plug really well and put a multi-meter on it. I found the sensor attached to the transmission. I pulled the codes and found a "P0500" code stored for the Vehicle Speed Sensor. A few wekk ago I noticed that the speedometer stopped working suddenly and the Check Engine Light (CEL) came on simultaneously.